It’s always a bit of a weird feeling standing in front of something epic, in front of something, that has changed the world, in front of something, you have known for years through books and television documentaries. It was like that when we watched the sunrise over Machu Picchu, and it was like that when we sat at a breathtaking 5,554m to gaze at the snowdrift of Mount Everest.
Today was just one of those moments, when we stood on the sandy grounds of the Pyramids of Giza, the sphinx on the left, the Cheops pyramid on the right.
We were taken there by a driver who was organised by our hostel. As we’re staying for 5 nights, we qualified for a free tour to Giza – which meant that we got the transport for free and the driver waited there for us. We were supposed to leave at 8.30 and at 8.20 the guy at reception asked us whether we’re waiting for anything.
Erm, yes, for our tour.
Where to?
To the pyramids.
With us?
Yes.
When?
Now.
Are you sure?
Yes.
Did we talk about this?
Yes, last night.
And gone he was, hectically making phone calls trying to organise a driver within reasonable time. We left 45min late, but we don’t expect things to run smoothly in these countries anyways. Our driver, Mohammed, was nice and friendly, and thank god we didn’t have anyone jump into the cab trying to sell us tours, as it often happens. We’ve read and heard of so many horror stories about the touts there that we expected the worst. It was bad, but not that bad. The scams and tricks were all the same, and it wasn’t too difficult to get rid of these guys. Mostly, a friendly “la shukran” (no thank you) did the trick. Only a handful were so persistent and annoying they had to be yelled at.
When we say we got a free tour we mean we got a free tour. Mohammed dropped us off and would wait there until we come back, maximum three hours later. We walked round the block from the car park to what we thought was the entrance, but it turned out this was only the entrance to the sound and light show. We walked down the road to the left, then down the road to the right, and we could not find the bloody ticket office! A ticket is 60 Egyptian Pounds, which is around NZD 14 or 7 Euro. Not too bad for the only still existing Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. We asked a tourist where the ticket office is and followed her directions, still nothing. This is THE place to go in all of Egypt, how difficult can it be to find the ticket office?? It must be pretty obvious??
We found a security dude at a gate and walked over to him. He wanted to see our tickets to let us in so we explained we don’t have a ticket yet, because we can’t find the ticket booth and asked him where we can buy our tickets. He looked at us, opened his gate and said we have to go to the grey building up that way, to the right. Shukran very much, we said, and took off into the direction of this grey building right next to one of the pyramids. As we were walking past the sphinx we stopped to gaze at it for a bit. Our eyes wondered across the whole area and we realised that we were actually inside the compound! And we don’t have a ticket! So we just decided to walk around until we get asked for one. Which never happened. We honestly never planned on doing this and didn’t do it on purpose but it was quite a nice surprise 🙂
Back to the pyramids. The sphinx was impressive. Many people think she had her nose blown off by Napoleon but this just a legend. The truth is that her nose was destroyed in 1378, by a Sufi fanatic by the name of Muhammad Sa’im al-Dahr. He was not happy with the lifelike representation of a human face as it was something that was forbidden by Islam. So apparantly he tried to blow her up with explosives but kind of only got the nose. Or so the story goes.
Behind the sphinx there are three pyramides. The smallest one, Mycerinus, on the very left, the best preserved one, Chepren, in the middle, and the probably best known one, Cheops, on the right. In between is a car park, full with tourist busses, which of course doesn’t do the area any good. The pyramids are absolutely massive and one of course wonders how the hell they built them.
The compound is abound with touts. First of all, there’s touts on camels and on horses. They ride up close to you and try to sell you a ride on their poor animal. Needless to say many of them, especially the horses, look a bit shabby and bony. Then there’s the hakwers trying to sell you tacky souvenirs, then there’s five year olds trying to sell you postcards, then there’s security and police offering to take a photo of you and then demanding money for it, and, our favourites, there’s the real friendly ones who give you a gift and welcome you to their country. They have a bag full of the typical headwear, a white cloth with a black band. They put it on your head, whether you want it or not (Manny only managed to escape by sprinting away, waving her hands above her head) and then insist on you taking a photo with him. Of course we didn’t, because then they make you pay. Instead, we took the head thing off and handed it back over to him. This makes him go all sulky, as it’s a gift for you, you should have it, he’s happy you’re visiting his country, bla bla bla. You’re all baffled, of course, nothing in life is free, especially not at one of the world’s major tourist sites (OK, we got in for free, but that was by accident). You keep it because he insists. Just as you make the first step to leave, he demands a tip. And there we go….
All in all we enjoyed our visit simply because it’s an impressive site. On the other hand it’s kinda sad what circus the locals make. This, of course, is not a modern phenomenon and the history of touts and hawkers at the pyramids is a long one. It would just be more enjoyable if you could actually walk through in peace without being hassled every 10 metres.